Connecting an old console to a modern television should be simple: match the plugs, select the input and play. In reality, a Mega Drive, SNES, Nintendo 64 or PlayStation can look soft, flicker badly, feel delayed or produce no picture at all. The right solution depends on the console, the display and how much authenticity you actually want.
This guide compares the four sensible routes in 2026: keeping a CRT, using a simple converter, buying an external upscaler or fitting an internal HDMI modification. There is no universal winner. The best setup is the one that preserves the games you enjoy without turning every session into a wiring project.
The short answer
- Choose a CRT if you have the space, want authentic motion and scanlines, or play original light-gun games.
- Choose a basic converter if convenience and low cost matter more than perfect scaling. Look for one designed for 240p games rather than a generic video adaptor.
- Choose an external upscaler if you own several consoles and want one high-quality route into a modern TV or capture card.
- Choose an internal HDMI mod if one particular console is central to your collection and you are comfortable making a permanent, professionally installed change.
First understand the signal chain
A retro console does not send the same kind of picture as a modern HDMI device. Earlier machines commonly output composite video, S-Video or RGB. Later systems may add component video, VGA or 480p modes. Your result is only as good as the weakest part of this chain:
console output → cable → switcher or processor → display settings → television panel
A premium scaler cannot recover detail that was lost in a poor composite signal. Equally, a good RGB cable can still look wrong if the television mistakes 240p for interlaced video and applies heavy processing. Start with the best clean signal your unmodified console can provide, then solve the display problem.
Option 1: keep a CRT
A suitable CRT accepts the original timing directly. That gives classic sprite art the blend, glow and motion characteristics for which it was designed. Fast scrolling remains clear, 240p is handled naturally and traditional light guns such as the NES Zapper and PlayStation GunCon can work as intended on compatible sets.
The drawbacks are practical rather than theoretical. CRTs are heavy, use significant space and can contain dangerous voltages long after being unplugged. Geometry, convergence and ageing components vary from unit to unit. A local consumer television with RGB SCART can be a better everyday choice than an expensive professional monitor, especially in the UK where SCART-equipped sets were common.
Best for: one dedicated games room, arcade restoration, 8-bit and 16-bit systems, and original light-gun hardware.
Think twice if: you need a large screen, frequently move equipment or cannot access a competent repair technician. Never open a CRT unless you are trained to work safely with high-voltage equipment.
Option 2: use a simple HDMI converter
Plug-and-play converters range from genuinely useful gaming devices to generic adaptors designed for old video players. The important distinction is how they treat 240p and how much delay they add. A basic television converter may interpret the console as 480i, producing combing, unstable pixels or extra processing.
A console-specific cable or entry-level gaming converter can be perfectly reasonable for occasional play. It is tidy, portable and inexpensive. Just do not assume every product marked “HDMI” preserves the original aspect ratio, colour range or response time.
What to check before buying
- Explicit support for 240p and PAL 288p, not just 480i or 576i.
- Whether the device line-doubles, deinterlaces or merely passes a signal through.
- Independent latency measurements rather than “zero lag” printed on a box.
- Correct 4:3 output, with an option that avoids stretching the picture to 16:9.
- The input your console actually provides: composite, S-Video, RGB SCART or component.
Best for: a first setup, occasional gaming, travel or one console connected to a spare television.
Option 3: use an external upscaler
An external scaler is usually the best long-term answer for a multi-console collection. Devices such as the RetroTINK range and the Open Source Scan Converter family are built around unusual videogame signals. Depending on the model, they can scale 240p cleanly, handle interlaced games, apply scanlines or masks, preserve aspect ratios and provide profiles for different systems.
The RetroTINK-5X Pro, for example, accepts composite, S-Video, component, RGB and SCART and provides motion-adaptive deinterlacing for 480i material. Its official specifications quote roughly a quarter of a frame in frame-lock mode. The OSSC documentation explains its line-multiplication modes and the display compatibility considerations that come with them.
The main benefit is flexibility. Improve a cable or add another console and the processor remains useful. It can also make capturing footage easier because the output is already in a digital format expected by modern capture equipment.
The trade-off is cost and learning. Advanced processors expose settings for sampling, deinterlacing, masks, cropping and timing. Defaults are often good, but enthusiasts can spend hours tuning a profile. Buy for the inputs and consoles you own, not for a feature list you may never use.
Best for: several original consoles, modern 4K displays, streaming or capture, and collectors who want quality without modifying hardware.
Option 4: fit an internal HDMI mod
An internal mod installs a digital output inside the console. Some designs tap a digital signal before the console converts it to analogue; others digitise an existing analogue output internally. The first approach can produce an exceptionally clean result, while the second may offer a simpler or cheaper installation.
HDMI mods make a favourite console convenient: one cable, predictable output and often console-specific scaling or menu options. The cost is that each console needs its own board and installation. Some kits require fine-pitch soldering, shell cutting or irreversible changes. Availability can also be limited.
Use an experienced installer, keep removed parts and ask whether the original analogue output will remain functional. RetroRGB’s comparison of digital-to-digital and analogue-to-digital HDMI mods is a useful explanation of the difference.
Best for: a single favourite machine, a permanent living-room setup or a console whose standard output is difficult to handle well.
Think twice if: originality and resale condition matter, you rotate through many consoles, or you would need to cut a rare shell.
Which route suits each console generation?
| Console type | Good starting point | When to upgrade |
|---|---|---|
| NES, Master System and early machines | CRT or a gaming converter that properly recognises 240p | Consider RGB or HDMI modification only if the console is a major part of your collection |
| SNES and Mega Drive | Quality RGB SCART cable into a CRT or external scaler | A better scaler helps with modern displays and capture |
| Nintendo 64 | S-Video where supported, through a suitable converter or scaler | RGB or HDMI modification can sharpen a dedicated setup |
| PlayStation and Saturn | RGB SCART into a CRT or scaler | Choose a processor that handles resolution switching reliably |
| Dreamcast | VGA-compatible route where the game supports it | An external processor helps with titles restricted to other modes |
| PlayStation 2, GameCube, Wii and original Xbox | Component or RGB into a good scaler | Prioritise strong 480i deinterlacing for PS2-heavy collections |
Do not overlook the television settings
Before buying hardware, select the TV’s Game mode, disable motion smoothing and unnecessary noise reduction, and set the aspect ratio to 4:3 where appropriate. Overscan controls may be labelled “Just Scan”, “Screen Fit” or “Full Pixel”. These changes can reduce delay and prevent the television from stretching or cropping the image.
Remember that OLED response time and total input latency are different measurements. A fast panel can still feel slow if the television or converter buffers several frames. The entire chain matters.
A sensible buying order
- Confirm which video outputs your exact console revision supports.
- Use a well-made, correctly wired cable for the best available unmodified signal.
- Test the TV’s Game mode and aspect-ratio controls.
- If the result is still poor, choose one gaming-focused converter or scaler that covers several systems.
- Reserve internal modifications for consoles you know you will keep and use.
This order avoids spending hundreds of pounds to solve a problem caused by a £15 cable or an incorrect TV setting.
The Retromart verdict
For most collectors, the best all-round setup is original hardware feeding a quality external upscaler into a modern television. It preserves the consoles, serves several systems and remains easy to replace or upgrade. A CRT still wins for uncompromised period feel and original light-gun play, while a professionally installed HDMI mod makes sense for one cherished console.
If you are still deciding how authentic you want the rest of the system to be, read our guide to original hardware, FPGA and emulation. Light-gun fans should also see our guide to CRT and modern light-gun options.